Return to Paradise

Friday 18/Saturday 19 March

The decision to travel overnight afforded hassle free motoring and time to take the long road with additions to Tigh Ruaraidh.

Any hope of seeing the sunrise was dashed as dawn broke with overcast skies and intermittent fog that by the time of our impromptu stop in Luss village (Loch Lomond) hung low twixt mountains and water creating atmospheric photo opportunities.

Rannoch Moor certainly was bleak, a biting chill wind whipping across the snow covered landscape. As we approached Glen Coe the clouds parted to highlight the light snow covered mountain textures. These towering impressive lumps of granite flank the winding road and offer spectacular vistas.

Finally the view from Glengary was clear and we journeyed onward past the resplendent Five Sisters of Kintail.  Taking a left turn we headed for Glenelg, the narrow road rising past conifer clad hillsides with craggy moss covered banks, the variations of green shades staggering. Over the summit a wide fertile valley came into view as we descended to the coast. Turning inland along a winding valley road the first of two Brochs Dun Telve and Dun Troddan came into view; they are the most complete on the mainland and display an insight into the life style of 2,000 years ago. www.lochalsh.co.uk/glenelg_broch  

Returning back over the summit the traveller is treated to spectacular views of Loch Duich and Five Sisters of Kintail.

Rejoining the A87 past Eilean Donnan we finally took a right turn ultimately heading for TR but not before ascending the Bealach na Ba.  Descending to Applecross Bay a sense of relief and anticipation – it is so good to be back in ‘paradise’!

 Sunday 20 March

Did manage to see the perigee moon though it did not appear large in these vast skies come 2am. Definitely a blustery day, lots of white horses riding the waves on the incoming tide, however blue skies dominated.  Decided to take a walk with Molly along the road keeping the wind behind me.  Heading north with views across the Inner Sound to Rona we were pushed along, almost in total solitude apart from one vehicle and a herd of Highland cattle who casually lifted their heads for a second. Sounds of tumbling streams made a change from the whistling wind. Reaching the view point I turned and headed back struggling against the wind as it whipped my hood creating crashing noises within. Was I relieved when John drew up in Laura Landrover.

 Monday 21 March

The vernal equinox brought gale force winds – a day indoors apart from visiting the local shop at Camusteil 8 miles distant and lunch at Applecross Inn. Definite struggle to open the gate and hold the car door! 

 Tuesday 22 March

Just a perfect day – calm, blue skies and sunshine – wow what a change in 24 hours.  An opportunity to make the most of such sublime weather with a walk to the remote hamlet of Coillegilie and Arbain. An enchanting journey with groves of narled birch encrusted with lichens, rocky outcrops covered in varieties of moss and heather clad peat banks.

 Low tide revealed kelp beds, banks of bladderwrack and we wadded into the clear shallows, bright green, red and golden brown varieties of seaweed swaying with the gentle ebb and flow. Sauntering across the almost white sand it was alive with air plops, squirts, crabs and star fish. With a backdrop of the distant mountains of Skye and calm crystal clear waters it was the most idyllic place to be.

Wednesday 23 March

Low cloud with the odd glimpse of blue sky greeted the morning.  A short distance northwards (by car) and just over a kilometer walk is Cuaig Beach. The path requires one to cross the river using stepping stones to access the beach. The gap between several of these rather varying in height stones ensured I waded across the stream bed.  Molly was reluctant to cross by either method but eventually wadded across up to her armpits though she found the courage to jump across the stones on the return journey. A vast curved expanse of sand, the calm sea rhythmically rolling in made for contemplative ambling with an inquisitive seal keeping watch. The low clouds enfolding the mountains of Skye lifted towards evening except the Cullins where clouds resembled fluffy balls of fleece climbing to the summits. Sunset was rather a damp squid this evening disappearing behind a deep cloud bank but not before colouring the increasing cumulus pink.

 Thursday 24 March

Layers of light/mid grey cumulus cloud, a mild breeze and calm waters for this our last full day in Paradise. Tried again but in vain to eat at The Walled Garden restaurant in Applecross, instead we circumnavigated the actual garden and returned to TR for a bacon butty!  Later I took a walk beyond TR’s garden stile over the rough tussock grass parallel to the shore hoping to spy an otter. No luck on the animal front but as for plantlife below my feet it was awash with different mosses, differing shades of green and patterns whilst on the rocks cushion mosses, a myriad of colours. Now the late afternoon sun is sending ‘St Peter’s fingers onto the Inner Sound creating a silver white light whilst the ‘finger’ rays gave an opaqueness to the mountains.

 Friday 25 March,

The otter appeared this morning fishing close to shore just below the kitchen window – a real treat.  Farewell to TR until October and as we climbed the Bealach mist enshrouded the summit. Descending to Loch Kishorn was reminiscent of landing in an aeroplane when one momentarily enters a silent world. We took the back road to Plockton appreciating the views across Loch Kishorn and the Bealach. 

Over the bridge to Skye we turned left at Broadford for Elgol along twisting single tracks through the spectacular Cuillins scenery sometimes bleak and brooding in the mist, sometimes alive, challenging in their austere majesty with the clarity of clearer skies.  Elgol’ s small harbour and the jetty offers far reaching views of the Cullins and patience pays for the clouds can equally swiftly lift for a fleeting glance or blankness. 

 Whilst watching the weather vagaries we also observed the local school children, ten of them playing happily together, their playground adjacent to this remote coastline. I wonder how many of them will look back and appreciate their surroundings and experience this remote school provides.

A short ferry crossing to Mallaig as the sun shimmered on the sea with Rhum behind and gave the forbidding terrain of Knoydart, the last wilderness, clarity.

The prospect of a sandy beach exploration along the old coast road at Morar was not to be passed by.  Meandering through the dunes a vast beach spread before us, Molly was in her element racing this and that way but always avoiding the water’s edge.

 A relaxing interlude before reaching our overnight stop in Back of Keppoch a deep band of orange/red sunset behind Rhum.

 

Saturday 26 March

Following a stary night the morning was rather overcast and cooler.  We headed for Ardnurmurchan lighthouse, the most westerly point in the UK.  As we navigated the twisting road there was a constant change of amazing scenery and terrain. Ancient oak woods festooned with lichens, the tree tracery appearing petrified, the woodland floor a textured carpet of moss mounds and covered boulders; Peaceful views of lochs, bleak black/brown inhospitable mountains to grass covered sculptured hills.  As we neared the lighthouse the skies cleared to reveal blue sky and the most fantastic views across glimmering azure waters to Eigg, Rhum and Skye, hues ranging from purples through blues across the mountains.

With time in hand we explored the dunes and beach at Sanna, enjoying an almost solitary meander along the sweep of the bay and various rocky outcrops. Crystal clear waters reflecting the sun’ s rays created fascinating patterns courtesy of the ebb and flow, whilst the outgoing tide had manifested tree like sand patterns.

 We sailed from Kilchoan to Tobermory, Isle of Mull, the only vehicle on board.  Our rooms in the Western Isles Hotel were three floors up – no lift!  but had stunning views across the harbour and coastline.  The prospect of another sunset we headed for the television masts near Glengorm. avoiding many a pothole. Sadly the sun’s initial red glow fizzled out early but this had no reflection on an absolutely brilliant day.

 Sunday 27 March

 Our final day in Scotland: After a sumptuous breakfast overlooking the bay we headed for Calgary bay passing interesting green, gold, burnished brown reflections in a long loch, herons taking flight their wing tips kissing the silvery surface. The road passed through conifer and larch plantations; cutting the car engine the air around was a cacophony of birdsong. Calgary bay, the only sandy beach on Mull was a delight both to the eye and ear. Strolling across the machair a song thrush was in full flight of musicality and combined with the slap,whoosh and trickle back of waves made for a natural symphony.  The memory of this last beach stroll in appreciative solitude stayed with me as our journey home via the ferry to Oban commenced. We past Glasgow at  5pm finally arriving home on the central south coast or what I call the bottom of England at 1am Monday 28 March.

                                                 Such wonderful memories

Sojourn to take the waters

Monday 21st February.

On the road 04.10 heading for Le Chunnel, not alone trundling the motorways though the heavier traffic clockwise was probably locked into the unremitting circle of rat race syndrome. Journeying through France small conurbations of dwellings appeared functional and faceless. Caught sight of just one cow, otherwise arable fields for undulating miles with hedge – less fields, roads lined with trees, sycamore, birch, hazel and poplars notably through Picardy. Mistletoe festooned trees for miles. Roadside pictorial wordless information signs alerted travellers for Gothic architecture or significant buildings but where in landscape remained a mystery and I found Mother nature reverted to Toilette aunaturelle – facilities provided beyond my powers of flexibility!

The major unexpected highlight of the morning being Place de Hero, the town square of Arras, cobbled streets lined by what appeared to be Dutch influence architectural buildings, each differing from the other either in size of front facade or the decoration thereon.

An overnight fall of snow clung to bare branches and adorned arching conifers as we approached Strasbourg. Entering Baden Baden the forested hillside winter scene was quite magical. Thankfully our rented apartment is comfortable and very warm with views of the forest.

Tuesday 22nd February.

The intended itinerary for today succumbed to the ether! The comment one could be conifered out was uttered as we took the high black forest mountain road. Heading for Freudenstadt we climbed, zig zagged admidst snow laden mixed forest, views of any valleys hidden in the midst of clinging fog.

Climatic conditions aside the towering steep, almost vertical hillsides enthused beauty that only Mother Nature can bestow. Beyond Freudenstadt we took the Wolfach valley road and thence to Waldkirch, a town of historical buildings. From here the road into Freiburg was very pleasant as was the city with an imposing Cathedral, the spire of which is latticed stone work, cobbled streets, pavements and cobbled rills. Definitely worthy of further investigation. By now the lure of our session at Caracalla thermally heated baths was paramount and we took the E35 north for Baden Baden.

There is but one word for a Caracalla experience – Sheer bliss. Pools of varying temperatures, inside and out, numerous jets of differing strengths and positions massaged limbs etc – one was rather spoilt for choice.

Wednesday 23rd February.

 A day of two halves each with it’s own interludes. We took advantage of sunshine and blue sky to take the high Black Forest road once more; gone was the sombre apparel of yesterday, today snow glistened and floated as icing sugar released by the sun from laden fronds. As we approached Mummelsee a vast panorama of the Black Forest was visible. Heading for Forbach we descended the mountain slopes, zig zagging our way past steeply conifered slopes. On reaching the Murg valley road we headed north passing umpteen sawmills and log piles until we reached the restored wooden bridge at Forbach.

Our return to BadenBaden ascended a narrow valley road passing traditional wooden huts on steep slopes an insight into a small holding community life style. After lunch we ascended three heights, the first was the television mast, sadly no views of the city for dense tree growth: the second was to Yburg castle viewed in the distance by means of yet more z-z bends but this time passing slopes strung with vines.

On reaching the castle gates we ventured forth past damaged fortifications to a yard with a dwelling but with no information we retraced our steps: The third was to a more  imposing castle ruin from the 1400′s, overlooking Baden-Baden; much more interesting though sadly no information leaflets.

The day was rounded off with another indulgent Caracalla session.

Thursday 24th February.

Gone has the sunshine of yesterday – falling snow is forecast for three days! Took the motorway to Freiburg for a second viewing: The Cathedral was very dark inside and rather under whelming with overpowering stained glass. First built in 1200 it has been much added to over centuries: The animal variant gargoyles were fascinating, icicles adding a different texture to the stonemason’s craft. Unfortunately there was a total lack of historical leaflets in any language. The Cathedral platz was host to market stalls and sadly today the rills were waterless. Without sunshine even the beautiful cobbled pavements lacked lustre.The clockmusuem inFurtwangen was most interesting with English information booklets and handy carrying seats enabling the visitor to enjoy the experience. Somehow we stumbled upon the new Ski jump high above Schonach, the chance to look down on the awe inspiring yet frightening high slope was not to be missed. The deteriorating weather had closed in as we returned to base.

Friday 25th February – last day.

No such luck on the weather front, brooding hanging mists on the tree clad hills, the only upside was plus degrees Celsius. Last Carcalla session and getting there early was more pleasant. Took a walk along the river to the falls and after lunch drove to (Schloss Neiweier – in village of Neiweier) for purchase of mmmm…tasty wine. Ascertained location of vetinerary for Molly to be cleared on her Pet passport and then went for a foggy drive and off road meander.

Saturday 26th February.

Return to blighty via four countries. Predominately dense fog though sudden interludes of clarity gave views of vineyards and valleys. After an absence of 40 years we ascended the steep road to Castle Schonburg hotel in Oberwesel; the last time I walked from the station with laden rucksack to the Castle then an International Youth hostel. Though the hotel was closed one was able to re-live times spent looking over the ramparts to the Rhine below.

Koln cathedral with it’s splendid stained glass, tall pillars and flying buttresses was the next stop.

Then onward into Holland momentarily for Belgium and our final stop in cathedral square Brugge. Greeted by a good dowsing of rain we took a refreshing walk around the square, prominent buildings and architectural features highlighted by neon lighting. Last leg to Calais arriving two hours ahead of schedule departure time. Disappointingly there was some chaos due to end of British half term. Four lanes into one for customs compounded by no information whilst waiting to board le shuttle. Our woes were not over, closed sections of the M25, diversion route a nightmare, then more closed roads! 3am we arrived home shattered. Overall an interesting sojourn, the best part being the Spa waters and Koln cathedral.

Over the sea to Skye……

As the song goes – All the bags are packed we’re ready to go…….

Wednesday 15 Dec.

 Take off 04.30hrs stars twinkling and -1degrees. Streams of horizontal and vertical lights across suburban enclaves; rolling convoys of articulated giants and the frenetic commuter rush. First glimpse of dawn 06.44 heralded a murky foggy interlude followed by dark brooding skies – the perfect backdrop to sun lit skeletal tree shapes in shades from grey green to russet browns. A brief diversion from the M6 through the unassuming yet interesting Forest of Bowland – treeless with undulating hills and moorland. By contrast the Howgills were striated with snow depicting stark outlines and to the west the Lake District mountain range topped with snow glistened in sunshine.

With continued fine weather there was little evidence of the snows that blighted Scotland a week ago until past Glasgow onward to Perth and Inverness though a far cry from the deluge of snow of our 2009 December journey. 12 hours later from the central south coast we arrived at Culloden House, Inverness.

Thursday 16 Dec.

Final food stores acquired and across Kessock Bridge by 10.30am heading for Lonbain via Garve, Achnasheen, Torridon and Sheildaig. Overnight the temperature dropped from a balmy 10C to -3C with a light snowfall and as we journeyed west further snow greeted us. laden, leaden skies encasing mountain summits the gale force winds whipping the frozen snow crystals against the car windows and diminishing visibility. But in clearer moments the architectural form of the many Munros through Glen Torridon were starkly outlined. Three hours later we had reached Paradise – Tigh Ruaraidh – a haven of peace and tranquillity with views across the Inner Sound to Raasay, Rona and Skye.

Friday 17 Dec

Howling winds resonating in varying range and chilling to the core; raging seas of white horses crashing on the rocks and hurling seaweed, angry black clouds shedding horizontal snow – a series of pulsating weather patterns all morning. Come the afternoon calmer seas with powerful curling surf with gentle precipitation of snow; the day ending with moonlight and stars, Rona and Raasay islands hauntingly outlined with the shimmer of moonshine radiating across the sound and the rhythmic nothingness.

Saturday 18 Dec.

Dawn broke to clearer skies after a dusting of snow overnight; the rising sun turning clouds above the Cullins pinky red. It is a joy to watch the constantly changing panoramic skies of varying hues and cloud formations. Rocky outcrops along the road to Applecross and Camusteel village shop were adorned with dripping icicles.

Sunday 19 Dec.

A quiet day, enjoying the ambience of TR culminating in a fantastic sunset.

Monday 20 Dec

Another moonlight night, much calmer now. An exercise day for Molly and I both wrapped up against the cold.  Whilst I tentatively trod my way along the drive Molly threw caution to the winds and positively charged forth only to return to lament at my tame speed!  A excellent indicator of ‘unfit ‘ is being out of breath after a short 1 in 4 incline, however accomplishing this climb every day should negate the need for any heart surgery – your either strong as an ox or passed over!  Up on the road we headed Applecross way the snowy sleet had ceased and behind the Cullins the sky was gently turning pink whilst to the north the sky was thunderous black menacingly drifting across the inner sound southwards. On our return Laura land rover appeared negating the descent on the steep bend –     a thoughtful gesture and avoided the approaching snowstorm.  Spotted the otter hunting close to the shore. 

Tuesday 21 Dec.the shortest day

Early low cloud cleared to reveal a perfect weather day – bright sunshine and clear blue skies that uplifted spirits and reflected the majesty of snow laden mountain scenery along our undulating snaking coastal journey to Loch Clare, Glen Torridon.  As we began our walk footfall crunching along the loch side track the temperature was -6C. A herd of artic migrating Whopper swans using the flowing river  loudly greeted our appearance as we crossed the bridge,  rails distinctly suffering from rotting wood.  The frozen surface of  Loch Clare shimmered and glistened as though rainbow coloured glitter had landed and bankside grass tussocks resembled a snow desert of pyramids.

Icicles hung from the peat bank, heather twigs encrusted in Hoar frost, trunks, branches and boulders capped by snow and to round off the creativity of Mother Nature awesome metre length stalagtyte icicles suspended from rock ledges.

 

Making the most of the day we ventured on to  Slattadale  beside Loch Maree for setting sun camera moments of reflected mountains. As we retraced our steps Ben Eighe took on the pink hue of the setting sun and John could not ignore an enticing pristine snow covered carpark!  As we wound our way home the golden brilliance of a full rising moon emerging atop the mountains sealed the day’s perfect end.

Wednesday 22 Dec.

Full moon radiating across the inner sound heralded another quite day. Sunrise hues seeped into dispersing northern clouds and the ice blue horizon delineated blue/green sea from a cloudless cerulean sky.  Time to indulge in painting and observing the changing tide, seaweed rising above the gentle rolling waves not to be mistaken for seals or otters!  With the absence of clouds the golden setting sun had nothing to infuse instead it gracefully sunk behind the Cullins highlighting stark outline in deepening shades of gold and orange. 

 

Thursday 23 Dec.

Another moonlit night and clear bright day. Time to investigate Sand bay and Monty Hall’s croft abode. I found the sheilings more interesting than the byre.  A stag with three hinds posed appropriately for that perfect ‘shot’ and far more agile than us on undulating dunes covered in snow hidding that deceptive hole or dip. Negotiating the flowing stream and gingerly crossing a pact of ice the expanse of ribbed orange/red sand and sound of breaking surf beckoned -then our second glimpse of an otter swimming purposefully towards an outcrop of rocks. Strolling at the waters edge, sun shimmering across the sound, the rythmic thump of tumbling wave and rippling trickle of released energy, spectacular mountain vistas is Nature’s gift to soothing one’s soul.  The sun’s vivid golden orange hues cast a silky fluid glaze upon the sea before slipping behind the mountains only to radiate those same hues in uplifting rays. Taking the opportunity to ascend the Bealach na Ba, deer searching for food by the roadside. The fading light cast a chilling blue/purple hue across Applecross forest whilst westwards the Cullins sillouhette was bathed in deepening red/orange hues – a haunting vista from 2,000ft. 

Christmas Eve

An interlude of rain overnight leaving brooding clouds tinged blue/grey/ by moonlight. Later The same clouds partly tinged pinky/orange by the rising sun with brooding blue cumulus layering on a cerulean sky. Time to just stand and stare and unwind…..

 

Christmas Day

A mixture of clouds, showers, presents and edibles!

Boxing Day

Rain from the south, high winds and white horses,  A slow thaw beneath the ice but the surface remains an ice rink danger for walking up to the road. Instead a fresh air break observing at closer quarters the rocky foreshore where on my very first morning at TR in 2008 the otter ambled across.

Monday 27 Dec.

Filtered sunshine and a cloudy sky cast myriad blue hues above the Cullins, the Old Man of Storr and the Quarang. At sea level a thaw has set in though rocky trackways 50 ms up still too icy to attempt walking to Coilleghillie – oh well there is always next October.

 

Tuesday 28 Dec.
A quiet day.

Wednesday 29 Dec
Time to say farewell and head south. Over the pass as dawn broke and onward to enter Inverness along Beauly Firth. Our route to Lockerbie was via Nairn or rather conservation Fishertown,  Granton on Spey, Tormintoul, the Cairngorms, the Grampians – the latter up in the clouds up snow piled high on verges; the experience of ‘deafening silence’ as we took a leg stretch until the grouse crocked! Onto Crathie,  Spittal of Glenshee, Perth, Stirling, and the M74. A brilliant day encompassing amazing vistas and cloud formations.

 

30 Dec

Detour today through Howgills, Sedburgh, Dent and Dentdale – pleasant hill and valley terrain before re-joining the M6 and the long haul home.  A brilliant holiday.

An impromtu visit to Orkney

Dark departure from southern shores,  full moon radiance creating ghostly hues in the night sky with an occasional glimpse of Cassiopea.  Dawn broke with spectacular aplomb tinting the fleeting clouds pink, the sun’s brilliance highlighting the golds, oranges, browns and reds of autumnal glory.
Trouble free motoring enabled a diversion to Anthony Gormley ‘Another place’ situated on a two mile stretch of sandy beach at Formby.  A short invigorating and blustery venture on the beach to view just some of the visible male sculptures all looking seaward – some near high water mark others submerged in the high tide.  On commenting to a local dog walker about the statues and the effect of sunlight I was encouraged to return at sunset – that would have to be another time.

Anthony Gormley - Another place

As we journeyed into Scotland the autumn splendour heightened to breathtaking beauty of tree cladded mountains and wooded valleys.  The mixture of deciduous and coniferous foliage and tree shapes adding texture to the colourful palette .
With the increase in land height so the tree line diminished giving way to the burnished gold and russet brown of moorland. The mountain ranges starkly outlined with a dusting of snow contrasted well and intimated a poignancy of winter scenery in the making. Red deer hinds grazed contentedly whilst the stag kept  watch his antlers  decorated with tufts of grass - all blended into the moorland landscape.

on watch

Much has been written about the Highland Clearances especially Strathnaver.  We began The Strathnaver trail from Altnaharra that ran beside the still waters of Loch Naver.  The verdant pastures subject of the clearances were beyond the loch end adjacent to the river Naver.  Crossing the river we headed across the moors for Forsinard RSPB reserve.  The Visitor Centre was in the old station building unmanned but informative.   The peatland boardwalk was memorable for the colourful palette of sphagnum moss, lichens, sedges and grasses. One could spend hours photographing the extraordinary, intricate textures and colours.  To be part of this bleak landscape for a short while was a privilege.

Sphagnum moss at RSPB Forsinard

Onward to Thurso to board the Hamnavoe for Orkney and the Orkney storytelling festival – the reason behind our journey. Locating our B&B high on a hill beyond Evie was a challenge and finally helped with live directions from our host.
We attended three events, the most memorable at Kirbister Museum – formerly a traditional Orkney farm.  The peat fire added poignancy, smoke hanging above our heads as we listened to tales from Orkney, Shetland and the Apalachian mountains.  The Ghostly stories late in the evening were at Skaill House; our journey across the dark moor eeriely enhanced by owls floating past.  

 Stromness is a delight to explore, terraced dwellings lined the paved street and steep narrow alleys made for interesting exploration – one is even called Khyber Pass!
Two days of showers and sunshine created many a rainbow across the vast open sky as we explored the Bay of Birsay, Churchill Barriers, the Gloop and Yesnaby.

The Old Man of Hoy was clealy visible on our choppy return to Thurso and made for challenging photographic moments. Our homeward journey took in the Highland east coast to Inverness and south of the border Chatsworth and the Peak District.  The round trip from the central English south coast to the Scottish north coast and many points between the many stages of autumn colour had been witnessed.         
  

just another special moment

Imagination

 

Are you one who sees another object within the original?

The New Forest offers ample opportunity for imaginative portrayal of shapes from standing or fallen trees – a pastime that becomes addictive.

An early autumnal morning – crisp air and bright sunshine was perfect for walking through one of the older woodland areas – a mix of deciduous trees – oak, beech, ash, birch interspersed with holly.  All around are fallen, decaying branches or trunks home to numerous insects and fungi and of course one’s imagination seeing shapes resembling animals or fictitious characters.

Textures of tree barks, knots, cancer growths and upturned stumps feed the imagination for patterns in various media

whilst the seasonal colours of leaves, lichens, fungi and flowers create a rich palette.

Even the coniferous plantations have their beauty as sunlight filters through the canopy highlighting the undergrowth of bracken.

To the end of the track – final days

2 July

Last day and the morning dawned fair and sunny after overnight rain. Another journey along the mad little road to Lochinver and then along the A837 parallel to Loch  Assynt  and the other side of Quinag (808m). Mostly a sunny day with interesting cloud formations constantly changing the atmosphere of the landscape. 

The ruins of Ardvreck castle (1490) stand on a promontory near the south eastern end of Loch Assynt.  Calda house close by was built (1726) using re-cycled stone from Ardvreck castle.  Now the house is also a ruin but much information on the house can be gleaned from an informative notice board.  A short distance away is Inchnadamph, a mecca for geologists as the Moine thrust runs through the area.  The gaelic name is Innis nan Damh meaning meadow of the stags.  This was so true as a herd grazed contentedly in the meadow adjacent to the old parish Church of Assynt.  Retracing our route we veered right northwards for Kylesku with Quinag on our left.  We returned to 173 via the mad road of Sutherland stopping to enjoy the sunshine whilst strolling on an almost deserted beach with clear blue/green waters.
 

 

 

3rd July

Time to leave 173 departing at 0628 as the rains came in obliterating the towering mountains.  Once south of Ullapool and Inverness rains cleared and sunny moments accentuated the landscape.  Beyond Inverness we diverted eastwards for Cawdor Castle and Dulcie bridge, the latter through lichen enriched birch woods under planted with orchids, lingenberry  & heather.  Leaving the woodland the road rose to the open moor and we turned for Carbridge with a short detour past Lochindorb the square ruined castle set in the Loch .  This morland road was shut on our Christmas venture and even Carbridge looked so different.  A short diversion to Dalwhinnie distillery and a pleasant stream side spot for lunch before the motorway run to Braithwaite, Cumbria arriving 1530 where Molly and I joined my walking companions for an extended holiday.  John continued homeward; a 17 hour journey on a par with the journey to 173.

 

4^th July

 An early morning walk with Molly accompanied by sounds of traffic brought home how special my week in Sutherland had been and that those memories must be cherished.

To the end of the track – days end

1 July.

A rest day.  Rain moved in for quite a while but did not deter visiting the Smokery where Peat smoked salmon was purchased.  There are two craft venues locally, one with more than the usual tourist items but did have some Coll pottery – now two vases short!  The other had local crafts, woven hangings, cards and paintings mostly by Gerry Irvine, former owner of The Summer Isles Hotel. 

Back at 173 with fair weather I located another waterfall, whether it is the one mentioned in the cottage journals who knows for getting down to the bank side would have been suicidal as the rains had swelled the burn into a raging torrent thundering it’s way to the loch. 

   

Patience was rewarded for staying up late with a glorious sunset and rainbow.  Midges or no midges photo opportunity was a must. Donning jacket with hood I clambered to my vantage point and through a wall of midges just kept clicking away as the light continually changed highlighting mountains and movement of water.

To the end of the track – the long day

30 June
Stephen’s last day and we had agreed the night before to try again for the waterfall first thing.  Rising early I set to preparing bacon butties for later and inadvertently set of the smoke alarm waking all a tad too early!  This time we contoured the lower slope behind the cottage to meet up with Culnacraig end of the Postie’s path.  We followed this to the gorge descending  boulders to a narrow path above the falls. 

      

Crossing above the falls would entail clambering over boulders before regaining the path which appeared to climb the side of the gorge.  At this point my hat went off for the postie for the route went across another six mountain streams!

Departed at 8am, the long winded route to Inverness airport.  Achiltibuie to Ullapool, Braemore junction, Dundonnell, Gruinard Bay, Poolewe, Gairloch, short stop at Attardale beside Loch Maree, thence Kinlochewe, Beinn Eighe towering above Glen Torridon through Shieldaig and finally the tortuous zig zag route to Lonbain where Caroline & John had laid on lunch at beloved Tigh Ruaraidh.  The garden looked resplendently colourful, seals basked in the bay and our brief interlude recharged batteries. 

 

 

2pm and onward to climb Bealach Na Ba with views across to Skye; descending the zig zags Loch Kishorn and the Five Sisters of Kintail form a perfect view.  Passing through Lochcarron with the single track rail line from Kyle of Lochalsh visible we headed for Achnasheen and Garve and the outskirts of Inverness.  With time to spare a short recci of Inverness, the river Ness and castle before farewells at the airport for Stephen’s first leg of his journey to New York and home.

After a quick replenishment of stores a good two hour journey loomed back to 173 Culnacraig via Ullapool, the quick route.  For sometime we had no forward traffic and we made good time.

To the end of the track – a day of suprises

29 June
Rain overnight and the mountain behind is lost in cloud yet across loch Broom the mountain range is visible in tones of grey with a tinge of purple.  Listened to the thrush family chirruping away in the weather beaten Rowan when not raiding the moistened grass for worms. 

 

We ventured towards Ullapool diverting at Strath Kanaird for the lighthouse that is visible from the cottage. We tried in vain to locate 173 Culnagraig but could get close enough to the lighthouse nor the headlands due to a private drive.   However we saw the beginning of the Postie’s path – an 11mile route round the lower slopes of Ben Mor Coigach and at one time the only route into Achiltibuie. Not a route for the faint hearted or inexperienced.

 

Ullapool museum contains a myriad of local & historical information housed in a former church. Though we had oft viewed the Outer Hebrides ferry plying Loch Broom the harbour was quiet.  Gathering a few necessities we journeyed southwards on the look out for a lunch venue.  Along Destitution road Laura land rover went off road across a stream or two onto a plateau with a mountain range backdrop and in almost total seclusion we had an enjoyable lunchtime.  Taking the  Dundonnell road we stopped at Stepping Stones a gallery run by Leda who stocks Ian Nelson watercolour paintings – John’s favourite artist. An opportunity for Stephen to select a painting before retracing our steps to visit Corrieshalloch Gorge the deepest in the UK. 

  
 

    

With a little time in hand before our evening meal at the Summer Isles Hotel Stephen joined me in shining up the 50 metre lower slope bank of Ben Mor Coigach behind the cottage in search of the waterfall. Not that straightforward negotiating bracken, heather and bog Myrtle on rough ground. Over the ridge we could hear tumbling water and see the gorge edge but sadly no view of the falls.

The prospect of descending the sheer slope probably sitting down was re-scheduled to negotiating another zig zag route.
Our evening meal was a most pleasurable affair – celebration of John’s birthday.

To the end of the track – the far north

A circular outing via Kylesku, Durness & Altnaharra.  Overcast and leaden rain filled clouds obliterated the mountain peaks but as the journey unfolded northwards clouds dissipated revealing blue sky and summits.  Back on the mad road of Sutherland the landscape reveals lochs, knarled rowan wooded valleys, inlets and tumbling mountain streams. At times ascending a rise in the road the direction of travel is uncertain – only when the wheels roll over the brow is it known whether a quick steering correction left or right is required. If the navigation is not excitement enough the spontaneous moment of seeing two otters fishing passes all superlatives – Such is the magic of this terrain.

 

       

The imposing dome of Suilven at 732m rises from this Geopark landscape of Assynt Coigach. From Lochinver the coastal route passes small hamlets, Stoer, Drumbeg before descending to Unapool and Kylesku past the towering Quinag at 809m & it’s neighbour Sail Ghorm 776m. 

        

Spanning Loch Chairn Bhain is Kylesku bridge that curves in harmony with the landscape – a masterpiece of design and engineering.  Beyond Scourie a narrow circular road leads to Tarbet, Fanagmore & Foindle. The scenery likened to a lunar landscape of rugged undulating gragy outcrops interspersed with lochs.

 

Onward to Durness where the landscape is rich grazing subject of the Highland clearances. At Balnakeil Bay one is at the most north westerly accessible point of the UK, a sweeping sandy bay blessed in sunshine with azure and green waters. From Durness towards John O’Groats the road skirts around Loch Eriball and crosses Loch Hope.  However at the northern end of Loch Hope a narrow road abuts the loch on one side with the majestic Ben Hope 927m on the other.  Another magical valley road with tumbling streams and waterfalls plus the Dun Dormaigill Broch at Strath More.

                                                                                                            

                                                             

Ascending towards Lochh Meadie vast swathes of estate land stretch out with sections of forested woodland and open hunting terrain.  A few former croft houses dotted on the landscape remain as derelict reminders of a lifestyle long gone when sanitation was totally basic, water came from the streams, peat was dug and used for cooking and warmth with food from the land.  As we approached Altnaharra we passed the weather station for this village is reputed to be the coldest in UK.  Here too is the Strath Naver road to Bettyhill – the valley where the worst Highland clearance atrocities took place. Turning south we headed for Lairg and Ledmore junction stopping at Cnockan Crag to gather information on the Rock route and the geological history of the area. Back on the road to the Summer Isles Stack Polly 612m had emerged from the clouds revealing the jagged craggy summit edge.  Opposite the huge stature of Ben Mor Coigach 652m commands Loch Lurgainn.  Culnagraig is just the other side but our access is the long way round!