Over the sea to Skye……

As the song goes – All the bags are packed we’re ready to go…….

Wednesday 15 Dec.

 Take off 04.30hrs stars twinkling and -1degrees. Streams of horizontal and vertical lights across suburban enclaves; rolling convoys of articulated giants and the frenetic commuter rush. First glimpse of dawn 06.44 heralded a murky foggy interlude followed by dark brooding skies – the perfect backdrop to sun lit skeletal tree shapes in shades from grey green to russet browns. A brief diversion from the M6 through the unassuming yet interesting Forest of Bowland – treeless with undulating hills and moorland. By contrast the Howgills were striated with snow depicting stark outlines and to the west the Lake District mountain range topped with snow glistened in sunshine.

With continued fine weather there was little evidence of the snows that blighted Scotland a week ago until past Glasgow onward to Perth and Inverness though a far cry from the deluge of snow of our 2009 December journey. 12 hours later from the central south coast we arrived at Culloden House, Inverness.

Thursday 16 Dec.

Final food stores acquired and across Kessock Bridge by 10.30am heading for Lonbain via Garve, Achnasheen, Torridon and Sheildaig. Overnight the temperature dropped from a balmy 10C to -3C with a light snowfall and as we journeyed west further snow greeted us. laden, leaden skies encasing mountain summits the gale force winds whipping the frozen snow crystals against the car windows and diminishing visibility. But in clearer moments the architectural form of the many Munros through Glen Torridon were starkly outlined. Three hours later we had reached Paradise – Tigh Ruaraidh – a haven of peace and tranquillity with views across the Inner Sound to Raasay, Rona and Skye.

Friday 17 Dec

Howling winds resonating in varying range and chilling to the core; raging seas of white horses crashing on the rocks and hurling seaweed, angry black clouds shedding horizontal snow – a series of pulsating weather patterns all morning. Come the afternoon calmer seas with powerful curling surf with gentle precipitation of snow; the day ending with moonlight and stars, Rona and Raasay islands hauntingly outlined with the shimmer of moonshine radiating across the sound and the rhythmic nothingness.

Saturday 18 Dec.

Dawn broke to clearer skies after a dusting of snow overnight; the rising sun turning clouds above the Cullins pinky red. It is a joy to watch the constantly changing panoramic skies of varying hues and cloud formations. Rocky outcrops along the road to Applecross and Camusteel village shop were adorned with dripping icicles.

Sunday 19 Dec.

A quiet day, enjoying the ambience of TR culminating in a fantastic sunset.

Monday 20 Dec

Another moonlight night, much calmer now. An exercise day for Molly and I both wrapped up against the cold.  Whilst I tentatively trod my way along the drive Molly threw caution to the winds and positively charged forth only to return to lament at my tame speed!  A excellent indicator of ‘unfit ‘ is being out of breath after a short 1 in 4 incline, however accomplishing this climb every day should negate the need for any heart surgery – your either strong as an ox or passed over!  Up on the road we headed Applecross way the snowy sleet had ceased and behind the Cullins the sky was gently turning pink whilst to the north the sky was thunderous black menacingly drifting across the inner sound southwards. On our return Laura land rover appeared negating the descent on the steep bend –     a thoughtful gesture and avoided the approaching snowstorm.  Spotted the otter hunting close to the shore. 

Tuesday 21 Dec.the shortest day

Early low cloud cleared to reveal a perfect weather day – bright sunshine and clear blue skies that uplifted spirits and reflected the majesty of snow laden mountain scenery along our undulating snaking coastal journey to Loch Clare, Glen Torridon.  As we began our walk footfall crunching along the loch side track the temperature was -6C. A herd of artic migrating Whopper swans using the flowing river  loudly greeted our appearance as we crossed the bridge,  rails distinctly suffering from rotting wood.  The frozen surface of  Loch Clare shimmered and glistened as though rainbow coloured glitter had landed and bankside grass tussocks resembled a snow desert of pyramids.

Icicles hung from the peat bank, heather twigs encrusted in Hoar frost, trunks, branches and boulders capped by snow and to round off the creativity of Mother Nature awesome metre length stalagtyte icicles suspended from rock ledges.

 

Making the most of the day we ventured on to  Slattadale  beside Loch Maree for setting sun camera moments of reflected mountains. As we retraced our steps Ben Eighe took on the pink hue of the setting sun and John could not ignore an enticing pristine snow covered carpark!  As we wound our way home the golden brilliance of a full rising moon emerging atop the mountains sealed the day’s perfect end.

Wednesday 22 Dec.

Full moon radiating across the inner sound heralded another quite day. Sunrise hues seeped into dispersing northern clouds and the ice blue horizon delineated blue/green sea from a cloudless cerulean sky.  Time to indulge in painting and observing the changing tide, seaweed rising above the gentle rolling waves not to be mistaken for seals or otters!  With the absence of clouds the golden setting sun had nothing to infuse instead it gracefully sunk behind the Cullins highlighting stark outline in deepening shades of gold and orange. 

 

Thursday 23 Dec.

Another moonlit night and clear bright day. Time to investigate Sand bay and Monty Hall’s croft abode. I found the sheilings more interesting than the byre.  A stag with three hinds posed appropriately for that perfect ‘shot’ and far more agile than us on undulating dunes covered in snow hidding that deceptive hole or dip. Negotiating the flowing stream and gingerly crossing a pact of ice the expanse of ribbed orange/red sand and sound of breaking surf beckoned -then our second glimpse of an otter swimming purposefully towards an outcrop of rocks. Strolling at the waters edge, sun shimmering across the sound, the rythmic thump of tumbling wave and rippling trickle of released energy, spectacular mountain vistas is Nature’s gift to soothing one’s soul.  The sun’s vivid golden orange hues cast a silky fluid glaze upon the sea before slipping behind the mountains only to radiate those same hues in uplifting rays. Taking the opportunity to ascend the Bealach na Ba, deer searching for food by the roadside. The fading light cast a chilling blue/purple hue across Applecross forest whilst westwards the Cullins sillouhette was bathed in deepening red/orange hues – a haunting vista from 2,000ft. 

Christmas Eve

An interlude of rain overnight leaving brooding clouds tinged blue/grey/ by moonlight. Later The same clouds partly tinged pinky/orange by the rising sun with brooding blue cumulus layering on a cerulean sky. Time to just stand and stare and unwind…..

 

Christmas Day

A mixture of clouds, showers, presents and edibles!

Boxing Day

Rain from the south, high winds and white horses,  A slow thaw beneath the ice but the surface remains an ice rink danger for walking up to the road. Instead a fresh air break observing at closer quarters the rocky foreshore where on my very first morning at TR in 2008 the otter ambled across.

Monday 27 Dec.

Filtered sunshine and a cloudy sky cast myriad blue hues above the Cullins, the Old Man of Storr and the Quarang. At sea level a thaw has set in though rocky trackways 50 ms up still too icy to attempt walking to Coilleghillie – oh well there is always next October.

 

Tuesday 28 Dec.
A quiet day.

Wednesday 29 Dec
Time to say farewell and head south. Over the pass as dawn broke and onward to enter Inverness along Beauly Firth. Our route to Lockerbie was via Nairn or rather conservation Fishertown,  Granton on Spey, Tormintoul, the Cairngorms, the Grampians – the latter up in the clouds up snow piled high on verges; the experience of ‘deafening silence’ as we took a leg stretch until the grouse crocked! Onto Crathie,  Spittal of Glenshee, Perth, Stirling, and the M74. A brilliant day encompassing amazing vistas and cloud formations.

 

30 Dec

Detour today through Howgills, Sedburgh, Dent and Dentdale – pleasant hill and valley terrain before re-joining the M6 and the long haul home.  A brilliant holiday.