Monday 21st February.
On the road 04.10 heading for Le Chunnel, not alone trundling the motorways though the heavier traffic clockwise was probably locked into the unremitting circle of rat race syndrome. Journeying through France small conurbations of dwellings appeared functional and faceless. Caught sight of just one cow, otherwise arable fields for undulating miles with hedge – less fields, roads lined with trees, sycamore, birch, hazel and poplars notably through Picardy. Mistletoe festooned trees for miles. Roadside pictorial wordless information signs alerted travellers for Gothic architecture or significant buildings but where in landscape remained a mystery and I found Mother nature reverted to Toilette aunaturelle – facilities provided beyond my powers of flexibility!
The major unexpected highlight of the morning being Place de Hero, the town square of Arras, cobbled streets lined by what appeared to be Dutch influence architectural buildings, each differing from the other either in size of front facade or the decoration thereon.
An overnight fall of snow clung to bare branches and adorned arching conifers as we approached Strasbourg. Entering Baden Baden the forested hillside winter scene was quite magical. Thankfully our rented apartment is comfortable and very warm with views of the forest.
Tuesday 22nd February.
The intended itinerary for today succumbed to the ether! The comment one could be conifered out was uttered as we took the high black forest mountain road. Heading for Freudenstadt we climbed, zig zagged admidst snow laden mixed forest, views of any valleys hidden in the midst of clinging fog.
Climatic conditions aside the towering steep, almost vertical hillsides enthused beauty that only Mother Nature can bestow. Beyond Freudenstadt we took the Wolfach valley road and thence to Waldkirch, a town of historical buildings. From here the road into Freiburg was very pleasant as was the city with an imposing Cathedral, the spire of which is latticed stone work, cobbled streets, pavements and cobbled rills. Definitely worthy of further investigation. By now the lure of our session at Caracalla thermally heated baths was paramount and we took the E35 north for Baden Baden.
There is but one word for a Caracalla experience – Sheer bliss. Pools of varying temperatures, inside and out, numerous jets of differing strengths and positions massaged limbs etc – one was rather spoilt for choice.
Wednesday 23rd February.
A day of two halves each with it’s own interludes. We took advantage of sunshine and blue sky to take the high Black Forest road once more; gone was the sombre apparel of yesterday, today snow glistened and floated as icing sugar released by the sun from laden fronds. As we approached Mummelsee a vast panorama of the Black Forest was visible. Heading for Forbach we descended the mountain slopes, zig zagging our way past steeply conifered slopes. On reaching the Murg valley road we headed north passing umpteen sawmills and log piles until we reached the restored wooden bridge at Forbach.
Our return to BadenBaden ascended a narrow valley road passing traditional wooden huts on steep slopes an insight into a small holding community life style. After lunch we ascended three heights, the first was the television mast, sadly no views of the city for dense tree growth: the second was to Yburg castle viewed in the distance by means of yet more z-z bends but this time passing slopes strung with vines.
On reaching the castle gates we ventured forth past damaged fortifications to a yard with a dwelling but with no information we retraced our steps: The third was to a more imposing castle ruin from the 1400′s, overlooking Baden-Baden; much more interesting though sadly no information leaflets.
The day was rounded off with another indulgent Caracalla session.
Thursday 24th February.
Gone has the sunshine of yesterday – falling snow is forecast for three days! Took the motorway to Freiburg for a second viewing: The Cathedral was very dark inside and rather under whelming with overpowering stained glass. First built in 1200 it has been much added to over centuries: The animal variant gargoyles were fascinating, icicles adding a different texture to the stonemason’s craft. Unfortunately there was a total lack of historical leaflets in any language. The Cathedral platz was host to market stalls and sadly today the rills were waterless. Without sunshine even the beautiful cobbled pavements lacked lustre.The clockmusuem inFurtwangen was most interesting with English information booklets and handy carrying seats enabling the visitor to enjoy the experience. Somehow we stumbled upon the new Ski jump high above Schonach, the chance to look down on the awe inspiring yet frightening high slope was not to be missed. The deteriorating weather had closed in as we returned to base.
Friday 25th February – last day.
No such luck on the weather front, brooding hanging mists on the tree clad hills, the only upside was plus degrees Celsius. Last Carcalla session and getting there early was more pleasant. Took a walk along the river to the falls and after lunch drove to (Schloss Neiweier – in village of Neiweier) for purchase of mmmm…tasty wine. Ascertained location of vetinerary for Molly to be cleared on her Pet passport and then went for a foggy drive and off road meander.
Saturday 26th February.
Return to blighty via four countries. Predominately dense fog though sudden interludes of clarity gave views of vineyards and valleys. After an absence of 40 years we ascended the steep road to Castle Schonburg hotel in Oberwesel; the last time I walked from the station with laden rucksack to the Castle then an International Youth hostel. Though the hotel was closed one was able to re-live times spent looking over the ramparts to the Rhine below.
Koln cathedral with it’s splendid stained glass, tall pillars and flying buttresses was the next stop.
Then onward into Holland momentarily for Belgium and our final stop in cathedral square Brugge. Greeted by a good dowsing of rain we took a refreshing walk around the square, prominent buildings and architectural features highlighted by neon lighting. Last leg to Calais arriving two hours ahead of schedule departure time. Disappointingly there was some chaos due to end of British half term. Four lanes into one for customs compounded by no information whilst waiting to board le shuttle. Our woes were not over, closed sections of the M25, diversion route a nightmare, then more closed roads! 3am we arrived home shattered. Overall an interesting sojourn, the best part being the Spa waters and Koln cathedral.
Thanks for another descriptive travel log TSM. Enjoyed it. Germany has never been a top travel destination for me, but still very interesting. If I ever did go, Baden-Baden wouild be the place to go to.